first put a few layers of tape on either side of the nut so you dont mess up the guitar around it. and dont hit yourself in the face. then get some needlenose vise grips and set it to where it grips but doesnt crush. Mandolin A's are always the most troublesome because they have to make compound bends from the nut: back as well as to one side. I gave the guitar with that neck away. It'll be good as new. I usually tap on the treble side of the nut. Located at the end of the fingerboard (where it meets the headstock), the nut determines the spacing of the strings and the action in the lower registers. Admittedly I was re-doing 30 guitars with soft plastic nuts, but I learned my lesson. Thanks to Mr. Bryan Kimsey's website, Mr. Frank Ford's website, as well as some valuable information and advice from members of this forum. I wish whoever thinks this is a good idea would stop! New nut installation...completed. the high e and b are completely unplayable. A guitar’s nut serves several important functions. Then clean out the slot for the nut taking care to keep the bottom flat. If it is not unglued you must take care to remove it. Use a hardwood dowel as a punch and tap it out of the slot. If it's been gooped in with poly use a razor blade or Xacto knife to score the finish on either side of the nut, also trace around the ends where the nut meets the neck. Nut removal...completed. I am far enough along to report that this nut replacement is a success. Slipped it in, tightened up the strings, and it's good. Sometimes a guitar nut slot will wear down over time and cause the string to rattle against the first fret, causing the open string to sound a little more like a sitar than a guitar. I ordered in a selection of slotted bone nuts. I put on elmers and tuned up and now I've got massive string buzz on all the strings. Removed the nut from the Martin, and sanded down the new nut until it had all the right dimensions. start at the low e area and try to lift straight up. on my guitar the low E and A strings are at enough of an angle to slide the nut out of place. For final string height adjustment at the nut on an acoustic guitar, I use a feeler gauge to set the first and second strings to .013”, and graduating up to .016 on the sixth string on an acoustic guitar. I tried to remove it yesterday and realize it's superglued in the slot. Final finishing of nut...almost completed. this may or may not work. People often comment on certain strings (e.g., mandolin A strings, guitar G strings) being more troublesome, always seeming to go out of tune during play. Compared them to the one I liked on my RK, found the one that matched it. A slot that is cut correctly should hold the string in place at a height that clears the first fret. When you get your new nut, a single drop of glue is all you need (many builders use no glue at all on the nut), you don't want the glue to squeeze out along the sides of the nut (which is what happened, and made removing the nut so traumatic). Before removing a Gibson-style nut. One of the most important things to remember before you start trying to get the nut out of the slot is that Gibson (and many manufacturers) apply finish after the nut is installed on the guitar. Situation under control. I've tried cutting the nut free to knock it out, only to have a big punky piece of the maple come along with the residue of the nut. The string grooves aren't as fragile as the groves on the bass side. To remove a nut that is still attached, remove the strings and hold a block of wood against the nut from the fretboard side. Others describe the same misadventure. Different materials will influence a guitar’s tone, and a poorly fit nut … How To Re-Glue Guitar Nut, Step 1: loosening the strings. 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